Northwest approach The region has a rep for full-bodied Pinot Grigio

Gannett News Service

While Pinot Grigio (made in Italy) continues to rise inpopularity, new wine drinkers might not realize that the same wine iscalled Pinot Gris in other countries.

"Gris" or "grigio" means gray, referring to the Pinot grapes thatcome in different colors.

While the wines are made from the same grape, they can bedifferent in style. For example, Italy's versions tend to be pale anddelicate, while Oregon's wines can be gold-colored and more full-bodied.

Residents of the American Northwest swear by their Pinot Gris as acompanion for salmon, fish and other seafood. Making a match is notalways that easy.

Here are four the wine-tasting group recommends from theNorthwest, all more full-bodied than the Italian version:

* 2001 King Estate Pinot Gris, $15.99.

* 2000 Rex Hill Pinot Gris, $17.99.

* 2001 Big Fire Pinot Gris, $15.99.

* 2001 Ponzi Pinot Gris, $14.99.

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Following is a recent question and the answer:

Q. I asked the proprietor of my neighborhood wine store for abudget-minded Syrah and took the $8 bottle of Micheal Picard 2001that was suggested. It was not bad, but today I am grappling to findwords to describe a specific part of its character.

It had a very pleasant taste entering the mouth, was OK whilestill in the mouth, but as each sip left my tongue, it was . . .just gone. Vanished without a trace. It did not cause my teeth tofeel dry as if there were too much tannin. I'm guessing the phrase is"short finish," but that doesn't quite explain the perfect noneventof swallowing this wine. Is there a word in the vocabulary todescribe this phenomenon?

Later on, I sipped a second helping of the wine while reading abook. After a chapter or so, the empty-mouth feeling on the finishwas gone. I'm guessing some alcohol evaporated and made this change.

I actually was looking to try a Syrah with the same mellow, earthyquality of one I once tried. (It tasted rather like lentils.) At thetime, I didn't like it, but tastes do change. I find myself in themood for it now. Do you have a suggestion for such a wine?

A. Short finish is the terminology. As for the second glass, Idoubt that much alcohol evaporated. More likely the wine had beenallowed to breathe; it reacted to the oxygen in the air and openedup.

American and Australian Syrah and Shiraz tend to be more fruitythan European. I have not encountered the lentil flavor, but to getthat earthy taste you seek, you will probably have to pay more than$8. You might also consider a Syrah or Shiraz blend. Here are acouple:

2001 Rosemount

Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon

at $13.99

This wine was straightforward and not too complicated. It had lotsof different fruit flavors: plums, blackberries, orange rind andcaramelized fruit, plus some vanilla. The wine was 45 percentCabernet and 55 percent Shiraz. Tasters thought this blend would gowell with duck.

2000 Penfolds Koonunga Hill

Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon

at $10.99

A previous vintage is a great value at this price. It had a dark,smoky color, with deep, deep plum flavors plus oak. The finish wassmoky. The wine, made from 61 percent Shiraz and 39 percent CabernetSauvignon, still was tightly wound and needs a couple of years ofaging before the wine will open up. Or let it breathe for 30 minutesbefore serving.